Products / Services
1) Basements and Crawlspaces:
These high moisture areas are often problematic when using conventional insulating methods to air seal and insulate. This can lead to air leaks and moisture issues in the wall system and possibly lead to mold problems. Fibre glass acts as a sponge wicking moisture through the porous concrete foundation allowing frost to build up in the cold months and very damp conditions in the warm ones, potentially creating environmental conditions for mold to grow and construction material to rot away!
With a 1% water absorption rate, Walltite Eco essentially seals the foundation when it is applied directly onto the concrete surface virtually eliminating any moisture issues with proper environmental conditioning. Along with Walltite's air sealing capabilities, its high R-value allows you to achieve your desirable final insulation value at a minimal thickness enabling exterior walls to be framed closer to the foundation and adding valuable square footage to the basement.
2) Joist End Cavities:
This is the location in a house that is responsible for the most energy loss. This area is quite tricky to insulate and seal without using tremendous amounts of time and material. Even the most valiant effort won't yield you a 100% seal with all the nooks and crannies, plumbing pipes, ducting, etc that are run in this area. You can stuff all the insulation you want into the joist end cavities, but without a proper seal this will always be a target area of air movement and energy loss.
When Walltite Eco is sprayed, it comes out in liquid form allowing it to flow into and around all surfaces and adhere to almost all substrates. As it expands, it seals almost 100% of all penetrations and substrates that it is sprayed onto minimizing energy loss. Walltite Eco can be sprayed into tight and hard to reach areas that could not be otherwise insulated.
3) Cantilevers:
The same principle applies to cantilevers as to joist ends, without a proper air seal, your insulation is not doing its job and you will forever have energy loss in this area.
There are two ways to insulate this area. You can spray the underside of the above floor in the cantilever and seal off the joist end cavity from the basement, or you can create a 'hot box' by spraying all the interior perimeter surfaces of the cantilever allowing the area under the floor to stay conditioned and maintain the same ambient temperature as the house. The later method is frequently used because ducting is often run into these areas.
4)Exterior Wall Cavities:
There are many problems that can arise with traditional insulating techniques of placing batts of insulation in the wall cavities and then placing a vapour barrier over the entire wall. For batt insulation, it can be compressed too much when installed, it can be poorly fit in the wall cavity allowing gaps between it and the substrate, and it can sag significantly over time creating even larger voids. All of these conditions lead to reduced R-values and increased heat loss. As for the vapour barrier, every hole that is created penetrated provides another point of entry for moisture and air to enter the household. Such can be caused by staples that hold the vapour barrier in place, the screws that secure the drywall to the studs, and even nails for hanging a picture on the wall. For every one pin head size hole, up to 1 cup of water per year can enter the house. You can just imagine how much energy is lost through these holes on an annual basis!
With a value of R7 per inch, spray foam insulation has the highest thermal resistance rating of any other type of insulation. It allows you to maximize your insulation in tight framed exterior walls (i.e. 2x4 studs), it will not sag, move or deteriorate over time, therefore maintaining its R-value. It also provides an air tight seal, creates its own vapour barrier due to its closed cell internal structure, all which significantly reduces energy loss through the exterior walls.
5) Hot Box/Bonus Room Floors in Garages:
This area is often difficult to insulate and seal properly which leads to a cold floor in the above room and more importantly, can allow dangerous toxic fumes such as carbon monoxide from running vehicles in the garage to enter the living home environment.
Spray Foam Insulation can be sprayed to the underside of the floor of the above room and around any duct work or plumbing to create a seal and separate the two environments and keeps any dangerous fumes in the garage. This makes the room above the garage a more manageable space to heat and cool.
6) Cathedral and Sloped Ceilings:
These areas can be some of hardest places to insulate properly due to some framing techniques, slope of the ceiling, and the available space to install the insulation and venting. This is often the case in older homes where 2x4 and 2x6 rafters were used for framing allowing minimal insulation to be installed with no ventilation.
Spray Foam Insulation is the ideal product for these areas due to its high R-value per inch (R7) and that it requires no venting due to its close cell makeup. Another benefit is that where it is sprayed, it stays. It has tremendous adhering properties so there is no drooping or shifting after installation which is often the case with traditional batt insulation.
7) Attics:
Whether it be a renovation job or new construction, spray foaming the attic floor guarantees you that your attic is nearly 100% air sealed around trusses, vent stacks, pots lights or anything else that may be protruding through the ceiling. On shallower pitched roofs, the eves can be sprayed to maximize the R-value that can be placed in this area which otherwise is not possible to do with any other type of insulation. Once the layer of foam is installed, loose fill insulation can be installed over the foam to achieve the desired final insulation value. This creates an affordable option to maximize energy loss.